Cross-Pollanated

Further, all the talk about nutrients gives an enormous edge to those selling processed foods, since they can rejigger foods to suit the latest findings – or fads – disseminated by experts. Today that’s reflected in the endless references – in store signage, product packaging and advertising – to such nutrients du jour as antioxidants and resveratrol. “Walk in the supermarket and you’re besieged by biochemistry,” Pollan observed.

Or – though Pollan didn’t say it directly – walk the aisles of Expo West, just a couple of floors below.

So, are Expo West exhibitors still the good guys? To the extent that they foster nutritionism, maybe they’re not. Pollan’s new book, In Defense of Food, aims to swap the complexity of nutritionism for the mantra: “Eat food, not too much, mostly plants.” He brought a similar message to his Expo West audience. “Don’t buy foods that make health claims,” he advised. “The healthiest food in the store is silent.” Delivered at the Produce Show, that message doubtless would be universally applauded. At Expo West it was a clear rebuke to the marketing strategies revealed on the show floor downstairs. Pollan still managed to draw an ovation from his audience. But it’s clear that those who like to revel in being at the “good for you” end of the food and beverage spectrum have some hard thinking to do about where their strategies are taking them and their customers.